How to Sew a Tote Bag: Easy Patterns, Flat Bottoms & Beginner Guide
If you’ve wanted to learn how to sew a tote bag—without jargon or stress—this guide is for you. We’ll walk through three easy tote bag patterns (unlined, lined, and a quick “fat‑quarter” version), then cover how to sew a tote bag with a flat bottom, how to add a lining and pockets, and the best stitches to use so your bag lasts. You’ll also find a yardage cheat‑sheet and answers to common questions beginners ask.
Before you start: materials that make sewing easier
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Fabric (outer): cotton canvas/duck 10–12 oz is the sweet spot for beginners—sturdy but still easy to sew. (Heavier 14 oz works, but adds bulk at seams.)
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Fabric (lining): quilting cotton or broadcloth.
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Interfacing (optional): light woven fusible (adds structure without stiffness—great behind pockets and at the top edge).
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Straps: 1" cotton webbing or self‑fabric straps. Typical strap drop for shoulder carry is about 9–12 inches; that usually means 28–30″ strap length once sewn into the top seam.
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Notions/tools: ruler/rotary cutter, pins or clips, iron, marking pen, and your sewing machine.
Good to know: For visible topstitching, many sewing instructors suggest a longer stitch length (≈ 3.0–4.0 mm) for a clean, professional line. Test on scraps first.
Pattern 1 — Simple Unlined Tote (with Flat Bottom)
Skill level: true beginner Finished size: ≈ 14″ W × 13.5″ H × 4″ D (a classic everyday tote)
Cut list (outer canvas):
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Body panels: 2× 16″ H × 19″ W
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Straps: 2× 28–30″ (1" cotton webbing or self‑fabric)
Why these measurements? With ½″ seam allowances, your 19″ width becomes 18″; when you box a 2″ square from each corner, you remove a total of 4″ across the base, giving ~14″ finished width and ~4″ depth. (Rule of thumb: cut‑out square size × 2 = base depth.)
Step‑by‑step (10–12 seams total)
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Hem the tops of both panels: fold ½″ + ½″, press, and topstitch. (Hemming first keeps the opening crisp and beginner‑friendly.)
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Sew body seams: right sides together, stitch sides and bottom with a ½″ seam allowance; backstitch at ends. (½″ is a common allowance in tote patterns, giving you wiggle room at bulky spots.)
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Box the corners (flat bottom): cut a 2″ square from each lower corner; open the corner so the side seam meets the bottom seam; stitch straight across. You now have a neat ~4″‑deep base that stands up.
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Reinforce stress points: sew a small box‑X at the top where each strap meets the bag (or a short bar‑tack).
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Final press and you’re done.
Alternative gusset: Some teachers sew a triangle gusset into the side seams instead of boxing after; it’s another super‑simple route for beginners.
Pattern 2 — Lined Tote with Pockets (polished inside & out)
Skill level: beginner/advanced beginner Finished size: similar to Pattern 1 (adjust as you like)
Cut list:
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Outer: 2× 16″ × 19″
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Lining: 2× 16″ × 19″
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Pocket (lining fabric): 1× 8″ × 12″ (fold to 8″ × 6″)
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Straps: 2× 28–30″
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Optional: fuse woven interfacing to outer or lining for a crisper top edge.
Steps
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Outer shell: right sides together, sew sides and bottom at ½″; box 2″ corners for a 4″ base.
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Lining shell: repeat but leave a 4–5″ turning gap along the bottom seam; box corners the same size so lining and outer match. (This “bagging” method is standard in many free tote patterns.)
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Attach straps to outer: position ends 5″ in from each side; baste at ¼″ from the top edge.
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Join outer + lining: insert outer inside the lining (right sides together); align side seams; stitch the top edge at ½″ all the way around.
Add‑ons: a second slip pocket, a key leash, or a recessed zipper (try this once you’re comfortable with the basics).
Pattern 3 — “Easy tote bag pattern (free)” from two fat quarters
When you want a fast gift or class project, use two coordinating fat quarters (≈ 18″ × 22″ each) and narrow straps:
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Trim each FQ to a matching rectangle (e.g., 16″ × 20″), sew right sides together around the perimeter leaving a small gap, turn, and press to make a self‑lined piece.
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Fold in half, stitch sides, and box small corners (1–1½″) for a dainty base.
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Add slim webbing or self‑fabric straps.
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This style packs flat and stitches up in under an hour; it’s often used in beginner classes and video tutorials.
How to sew a tote bag with a flat bottom (3 common methods)
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Cut‑out squares (our patterns above): decide your depth; cut a square = depth ÷ 2 from each lower corner; match seams; stitch across. (Ex: 4″ depth → 2″ square.)
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Measure and stitch across a point without cutting first (then trim after sewing). Great for perfectionists.
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Side‑seam gusset (triangle insert): form a small triangle at the lower side seam before joining; quicker for kids’ classes and “super simple” totes.
How much fabric do you need to sew a tote bag?
Quick yardage guide (44–45″ wide fabric):
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Unlined everyday tote (14″ × 13.5″ × 4″): ~½ yd outer (cut two 16″ × 19″); straps from webbing.
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Lined tote: ~¾ yd outer + ¾ yd lining (adds pockets, allows for directional prints).
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Fat‑quarter tote: 2 fat quarters + strap material.
If your tote is wider/taller, add fabric in both directions; remember you also need extra length for boxing corners and top hems. A generous ½″ seam allowance is beginner‑friendly (and widely used in free tote patterns).
What is the best stitch for tote bags?
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Reinforcement stitches: add a box‑X where straps connect, or use a triple straight stitch if your machine has it (great strength through heavy layers).
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Seam finishes: zigzag over raw edges or serge for durability; press as you go—pressing is half the polish.
Needle & thread recap: Start with a 90/14 needle on 10–12 oz canvas; bump up for thicker seams. Standard poly thread is fine; thicker topstitch thread is optional—test tension on scraps.
Troubleshooting (so your first tote looks clean)
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Wavy top edge? Press the double fold carefully and topstitch with a longer stitch (3–4 mm).
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Crooked topstitching? Watch the edge guide, not the needle; longer stitches show fewer wobbles.
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Bag too slouchy? Add woven fusible to the top 3–4″ of the outer and to pockets.
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Straps feel short? Aim for 9–12″ drop for shoulder carry; adjust strap length accordingly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a tote bag easy to sew? Yes—especially the unlined version with boxed corners. You’re sewing rectangles with straight seams, pressing a simple double‑fold hem, attaching straps, and boxing corners (cut 2″ squares for a 4″ base). It’s an ideal first project.
How much fabric do you need to sew a tote bag? For a classic everyday size, plan on ½ yd of 44–45″ canvas for an unlined tote (plus webbing straps). For a lined tote, budget about ¾ yd each for outer and lining. If you’re using two fat quarters, you can make a self‑lined small tote.
How to make tote bags step by step? Cut two panels, hem the tops, baste straps, sew sides/bottom with ½″ seams, box corners (2″ cutouts → 4″ base), press, and reinforce strap joins. For a lined tote, make an identical lining, leave a turn‑gap, stitch the top edge all around, turn, close the gap, and topstitch.
What is the best stitch for tote bags? Use a straight stitch (2.5–3.0 mm) for seams and 3.0–4.0 mm for topstitching. Reinforce strap areas with a box‑X or a triple straight stitch if your machine offers it. Pair with a 90/14 needle on 10–12 oz canvas.
Where this fits with other beginner‑friendly resources
Sewing teachers often start students with a simple tote because straight seams + boxed corners build confidence quickly. You’ll see small variations (triangle gussets sewn into the side seam, French seams, or different seam allowances), but the core method is the same—and that’s why it’s so approachable. If you like cross‑checking steps with photos, this “super simple” tote class tutorial is a helpful reference as you go.
Finish strong: press, test, enjoy
Press each seam as you sew; it’s the quiet secret to a bag that looks store‑bought. Load your new tote with a sweater and a water bottle, then gently tug the straps to confirm your reinforcements are solid. From here, try a slip pocket, a key leash, or a recessed zipper—one small upgrade at a time.