How to Make Tote Bags: Simple DIY, Sewing & Custom Ideas for Beginners

TL;DR — your first tote at a glance

• Fabric: 10–12 oz cotton canvas (durable, beginner‑friendly). Lighter 6–10 oz works for errands; 12 oz for travel/groceries.
• Interfacing (optional): light woven fusible (e.g., SF101) to add structure without bulk.
• Straps: 1″ cotton webbing, 28–30″ long each (gives ~10–12″ drop—good for shoulder carry).
• Seams: use ½″ seam allowance (easy to measure, common in tote tutorials).
• Box corners: cut 2″ squares at bottom corners to make a 4″‑deep base (or sew across a 4″ line on the triangle).

Materials & tools (beginner set)

• Fabric: ½–¾ yd medium/heavy canvas or denim (outer), ½ yd quilting cotton (lining), or make a single‑layer “market” tote in canvas only. 10–12 oz canvas balances weight and durability.
• Interfacing (optional): woven fusible (often recommended by bag‑making teachers to keep fabrics from stretching and to make pockets/zipper areas behave).
• Straps: 1″ cotton webbing (two pieces, 28–30″) or self‑fabric straps. Strap length determines “drop.” A 28–30″ strap yields ~12–15″ total loop, ~10–12″ drop.
• Thread/needle: all‑purpose polyester thread; 90/14–100/16 needle for canvas. (Home sewing guides suggest heavier needles for canvas.)
• Basics: scissors/rotary cutter, pins or clips, ruler, iron, sewing machine (zigzag or serger helpful to finish seams).

Pattern A: Unlined “market” tote (fastest, beginner‑proof)

1. Hem the top edges: Press a double fold (½″ + ½″) along the top of each panel; topstitch to keep the opening clean. (Many beginner tutorials start with top hems for accuracy.)
2. Place and baste straps: On the right side of one panel, position strap ends 5″ in from each side, ends aligned with the hem’s lower edge; stitch ends within the hem area. Repeat for the second strap on the other panel. (Adjust handle spread to taste.) Guidance on drop measuring comes from strap‑fitment resources.
3. Sew the body: With right sides together, sew side seams and bottom seam at ½″; backstitch at ends. Finish raw edges by zigzag/serger if you like.
4. Box the corners (4″ base): Cut a 2″ square from each bottom corner; pinch open the corner so side seam meets bottom seam; sew straight across the opening. A 2″ cut → ~4″ depth (rule of thumb).
5. Press & reinforce: Press seams; optionally topstitch around the upper hem again with the straps captured for strength.

Pattern B: Lined tote with boxed corners (polished finish)

• Outer: (2) 16″ × 19″
• Lining: (2) 16″ × 19″
• Straps: webbing or self‑fabric 28–30″ × 2
• Optional: fuse light woven interfacing to the lining or outer for a crisper result.

1. Fuse interfacing (optional): apply to wrong side of outer or lining with steam; press, don’t slide. Bag‑making teachers often prefer light woven fusibles for totes.
2. Sew outer shell: Right sides together, sew sides and bottom at ½″; box corners with 2″ squares for a 4″ base.
3. Sew lining: Repeat, but leave a 4–5″ turning gap along the bottom seam; box corners the same size so lining matches outer.
4. Attach straps to outer: Place strap ends on the right side of the outer bag, 5″ in from each side; baste ¼″ from the top edge.
5. Join outer + lining: Insert the outer into the lining right sides together, align top edges and seams, and stitch all around the top at ½″.
6. Turn & finish: Pull the bag right‑side out through the lining gap, stitch the gap closed, then topstitch around the top edge to set the straps and keep the lining in place.

Fabric choices & structure (what actually matters)

• Canvas weights: For everyday use, 10 oz hits the sweet spot; 12 oz for heavier loads; 6–10 oz for ultralight errands.
• Interfacing: A light woven fusible (like SF101) keeps cotton from stretching and makes pockets/zip areas behave, without turning the bag stiff. Many instructors call this their “use it in nearly every bag” staple.
• Needle/thread: For canvas or layered seams, use a 90/14–100/16 needle and regular poly thread. (Home DIY tote instructions recommend stepping up needle size for canvas/vinyl.)

Customizing your tote (printing & personalization)

1. Heat‑transfer vinyl (HTV) — great for short runs

• What it is: Cut a design from vinyl, weed it, and press it onto fabric. Works well on cotton, polyester, and canvas and doesn’t require specialized inks.
• When to use: Names, monograms, simple logos; you can start with a home iron, though a heat press improves consistency.

2. Screen printing — best for bulk, durable prints

• Plastisol vs. water‑based inks: Water‑based produces a softer, breathable print but is trickier to run; plastisol is forgiving and common in shops.
• When to use: Larger batches or when you want a truly integrated look on canvas.

3. Sublimation — vivid, but fabric‑specific

• Works on: Polyester or poly‑coated blanks; cotton requires a special HTV or coating workaround and results can be less durable than true polyester sublimation.
• When to use: Full‑color, photo‑quality designs on poly tote blanks.

4. Embroidery—timeless

How to make tote bags to sell (pricing & simple math)

• Canvas & lining (¾ yd total), interfacing, webbing, label, thread: $10–$16 (varies by source/weight).
• Labor: If cutting + sewing takes 60–90 minutes, at a target of $20–$30/hour, that’s $20–$45 labor.
• Overhead: needles, machine wear, electricity, packaging, fees (add a few dollars).
• Target price ends up in the $35–$65 range for simple totes, more for zippers/pockets/leather. Community sellers commonly cite similar ranges in marketplace discussions.

Troubleshooting: clean, square totes every time

• Wavy top edge? Press the double‑fold hem carefully and topstitch slowly; a heavier needle helps with layers.
• Slouchy body? Add woven fusible to the lining/outer. It keeps cotton behaving like home‑decor weight.
• Uneven base? Remember the boxed‑corner formula: for a 4″ base, mark/sew 4″ across (or cut 2″ squares first).
• Straps too short/long? Aim for a 10–12″ drop for shoulder wear; that’s usually ~28–30″ total strap length when sewn into a tote.

Frequently Asked Questions